Finland

Once you get past the borderlands, Arctic Finland is how you might expect. Unlike North Norway, the lanscape is flat, and it's covered in forest which stretches on endlessly, interrupted only by expanses of water, all minor relations of a great lake called Inari.  

 

You can drive for miles without seeing anyone, perhaps only two white reindeer in the middle of the road, who will watch you approach at speed, as if they would welcome their own death. 

   

My friend who used to live in this area tells me that, despite appearances, there are people living in the forest. The population is made up mostly of Sami people who moved a little south when Russia annexed their previous region. You can tell they are there from the large wooden boxes which stand on stilts at intervals along the roadside. These are their post boxes, and they need to be so large because there is no post office from which you can collect your parcels. The nearest shop is hours away, but if you live in the region you can call them with an order and they'll deliver to your post box. 

At the Eastern tip of the nation we crossed back into Noway and headed towards Kirkenes and the Russian border.